[Help] PS1 Recap - Lifted pad on C527, need advice for jumper

[naytai]

Hi everyone,

While doing a recap on my PS1, I accidentally lifted and removed the solder pad for capacitor C527.
Looking at the wiring diagram, what's the best way to make a jumper in this case?

Would it be viable to solder it together with C518 instead, since they seem to be connected?

Thanks in advance

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[MasterLink]

Yep, if they are connected, a simple bodge wire is all that's required to fix that. The nearest point is always the best for reducing noise, and essentially you're just bridging it the exact same way it was done under the solder resist, but now above. Totally fine and acceptable repair.

[naytai]

From what I can tell from the diagram - which isn’t much - they do seem to be connected. I'll try to bridge them this weekend and post back here. Thanks

[MasterLink]

The diagrams are the PCB layout itself, namely the copper routing on the top layer (with some of the component shapes, so this might have been a screenshot from their CAD tool used). It's actually more than enough and quite detailed and good to have. You can even see the connecting trace in your own photo actually if you look close enough. On both connected pairs actually.

[nocash]

Would it be viable to solder it together with C518 instead, since they seem to be connected?

I don't see what makes you think that they are connected. The picture from the service manual is kinda useless, it's showing multilayer pcb wiring, without any indication which wires connect to which layer.
What you can see on that picture is that the upper pin of C527 seems to go to a via, that would be a very robust connection where you could connect to, without fearing to rip out the via.
At least it seems to go to the via. If you really want to know where it does connect to, then you must look at the schematic in the datasheet, not at that multiplayer pcb picture.

[nocash]

You can even see the connecting trace in your own photo actually if you look close enough. On both connected pairs actually.

Hmm, yes. That makes it look as if there is a horizontal wire between the upper pins of the capacitors.
I'd still use a multimeter to check if the ripped wire does really have a 0 ohm connection to the other capacitor.
The picture from the service manual looks kinda different, with vias at locations that don't seem to match up with pcb photos.